Herd of goats on the farm
Doko Farm is practicing an old idea that’s gaining support and momentum during these modern times. Raising heritage animals was once redundant. Farmers knew the bloodlines of their breeding stock as well as they did their grandparents. Then factory farming happened. Raising as much meat as possible, as quickly as possible, and as cheaply as possible became the go-to plan.
Joe and Amanda Jones met in college on the California coast. Joe was born and grew up on a Blythewood farm that had been in his family since before the Civil War. His move to California was an attempt to get far away from his roots. And according to Amanda, for “fresh genetics.”
While both were pursuing degrees in biology— Joe a PhD, Amanda a bachelor of science—they got married and planned to live happily ever after, especially since Amanda had made staying in California a condition of marriage. That was life for a decade.
Around 2007, financial problems surfaced, as they did for people all over the country. Although their life was close to idyllic, both knew that they wouldn’t be able to afford or manage a true family under those circumstances.
Happy as a pig in mud at Doko Farm
Both were doing research work that required time away from each other, and they were holding down jobs that helped pay for the lifestyle they really loved. The Monterey Peninsula is a beautiful place with much to offer, but economical living isn’t one of those things.
As Amanda prepared to go back to school to “work with organic agriculture,” Joe pointed out his family owned a farm. That family farm was dealing with similar issues. Eventually Joe, Amanda, and other family members still living in Blythewood gathered around the kitchen table and talked about the farm’s future.
It was decided the property would be split between the siblings. Sister would take the parents’ home, and Joe and Amanda would take over and rehabilitate the original family home and get 38 acres to do whatever they wanted.
Heritage breed turkey
That original home, built in 1820, was constructed in pieces over the years. Whenever population or circumstances changed something was added or removed from the house. Joe’s great-great grandmother was, according to legend, able to protect the home from General Sherman’s firebugs.
Today the house, which Joe says, “isn’t quite the way I envisioned it in my head, but is functional and comfortable,” features electricity, running water, much better insulation, and even fiber internet service.
The Jones’s moved back to Richland County late in 2007 and began repairing, restoring, and remodeling the home. In the fall of 2010 they moved in and began to build the farm they dreamed about.
When deciding what to name their farm, Joe and Amanda looked at Blythewood history and selected Doko, the original name for the railroad stop where Blythewood now exists. One meaning of Doko that resonated with the couple was “gathering place.” Now the original name is getting more notice, and they feel like trendsetters in more than just providing quality food.
The business part of Doko Farm is focused on meat from older heritage breeds of animals. Some might find it hard to understand a move from studying endangered Marine wildlife to raising and selling heritage meats, but the tasks involved are still environmentally focused.
Heritage animals at Doko Farm are raised outside in the fresh air and sunshine, without antibiotics or added growth hormones. Joe and Amanda even put in the extra work to keep breeding flocks and groups of heritage breed livestock.
A heritage breed is one that has been selected for a long, productive, outdoor life, can mate naturally, is an older breed developed prior to the mid-1900s, and has been or is currently endangered due to low population numbers.
“By selecting heritage breeds that are best suited for area climate and specific farm conditions, we are ensuring the animals on our pasture can make the most of what we have to offer.”
Heritage breeds grow slowly, often taking twice as long as their industrial counterparts to reach market weight. This slow growth is the key to developing rich flavor. Doko Farm raises the following heritage breeds— Guinea Hogs ( pork), St. Croix Sheep (lamb/mutton), Buckeye Chickens (poultry), and Narragansett Turkeys (poultry).
The flavor is so good that products from each Doko Farm animal is listed on the Slow Food Ark of Taste—a catalog of over 200 delicious foods in danger of extinction. Promoting and eating Ark products help ensure they remain in production and on our plates. For more information, visit www.slowfoodusa.org.
“Breeding and hatching our own means each of our animals is raised with our high standards of care, starting on day one. We continue to use our backgrounds in science and sustainability to farm regeneratively and steward the land for future generations. Working with endangered species led us to continue our conservation work with heritage breed livestock. In this way, we are increasing diversity in our food system and returning flavor to our collective table,” says Jones.
The grounds of Doko Farm appear to be stuck in a two century old time warp. The house and the outbuildings are obviously ancient. Fencing and most vegetation would appear normal to anyone dropping by in a time machine.
The operation of the farm and the link between the animals, insects, and vegetation is obvious. There are plums, muscadines, paw-paws, two types of figs, and even a nectarine tree. Ground cover is regulated, edible, and diverse. Fertilizer comes from natural sources, either fresh from moving livestock around, or detritus from cleaning under chicken coops.
From one end of the property to the other everything needed to run this farm is already in place. While this operation is being run by a couple of biologists, this is the way farmers once operated all across America. Farmers without any formal education were taught by parents and other relatives. Nature is the primary instigator here, not efficiency experts. Makes one wonder why we decided to try something different.
Doko Farm will again be part of Ag + Art June 8-9. For more information, visit www.dokofarm.org or www.agandarttour.com.
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