For my wife’s birthday, we decided to journey by train through Canada from Toronto to Vancouver, with three short stops in Winnipeg, Saskatoon, and Jasper. We encountered spectacular scenery, comfortable first class cabins, and culinary surprises.
Arrive a day earlier, if you can, to take in the beautiful sights of Ontario. We enjoyed a brisk, walk in the breezy, sunny afternoon in this bustling metropolitan city. We headed towards St. Lawrence Farmer’s Market in a quest for the famous lobster roll. Amid the hustle and bustle of the market was Buster’s Sea Cove. We were introduced to one of the best lunches I have ever had—fresh chunks of lobster meat tossed with a delicate aioli and served on a buttered French brioche roll. I was so impressed I had to follow Ally’s suggestion and try the grilled octopus.
The Fairmont York, located downtown (my wife’s birthday request), is just across the street from the train station. This historic and luxurious hotel boasts of fine dining, sumptuous suites, and world class customer service. The Fairmont did not disappoint. The restaurant serves a fabulous Caesar salad and the Chenin Blanc, created by local winery Big Head, is a must.
On the day of our departure, we made our way across the street to the train station where we were escorted to the Prestige Class Lounge. Our suite was small and compact. We took our time organizing what went where and stowed our empty carry-ones underneath the couches. While at dinner, our suite would be transformed from a salon to a bedroom, complete with down comforter and velvety chocolates with Grand Marnier.
Before our departure, we made our way to the Dome Car Observatory, where we would spend a major portion of our journey. Taking in the forest scenery, rolling through majestic, purple mountains and watching Canadian geese fly over the lakes. We said, “Bon Voyage!” to Toronto. The silver streamlined train swept through the city the scenery was replaced with snowy forests reminiscent of a long forgotten fairy tale.
All our meals were served in the dining car with white linen tablecloths, starched napkins, and silver cutlery. Our seating arrangement was a private booth for two with a large window to enjoy the scenery. The most impressive meals were the red bell pepper, feta cheese omelet, prime rib, lamb chops, and pork chops. After meeting with the chef and taking a tour of his kitchen, I was impressed he and his staff were able to make such delicious gourmet dishes in such a small space.
Our first stop was in Winnipeg. Unfortunately, it was late in the evening and much of the city sights were closed. We made the most of our time strolling through the historic train station, making phone calls. Our next stop would be in Saskatoon for about 30 minutes. Freezing cold, a small train station, and just enough time for us to walk the length of the train and back before succumbing to the bitter winds. Our last stop would be in Jasper. We arrived in the early morning with a scene of a small, old world town with twinkling white lights outside our window. “Like something out of a Frank Capra film!” my wife exclaimed.
We arrived in Vancouver early in the morning and enjoyed our last breakfast aboard the train with our new friends Ines and Michael, from, of all places, Savannah, Georgia. We headed to another Fairmont Hotel.
The following day, we were headed home to South Carolina. But before we left, I just had to have king crab legs from The Vancouver Fish Co. Restaurant.
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