The Chaussée Gate guarded the ancient city of Verdun. The U.S. Army occupied a base on the outskirts of Verdun between 1950 and 1968. Linda’s father, Herbert Sosbee, served in the military police at the base from 1961 to 1964. His family joined him for his last two years.

In 1963, Linda met Pete Best, the original drummer of the Beatles. Pete had been replaced by Ringo Starr in 1962 and briefly played with the London Twisters who appeared at the Verdun Youth Club.

Linda and her friends from the Verdun American High School went to the concert and heard set after set of Beatle tunes. Her comment then was, “I like this music and Pete is a great drummer, but who are the Beatles?” If truth be known, she probably screamed her 13–year–old lungs out. Even today she

swoons at the mention of Pete

Best.

The Victory Monument stands at the top of 73 steps leading up from Victory Avenue in Verdun.

Verdun is the heroic city where 300,000 died in 300 days in 1916 during the Great War. Verdun is also the Historic City where for 30 centuries it was a crossroads for European armies. Verdun became French in 1552 and suffered during the Franco– Prussian War, the First World War, and the Second World War, each time shouting “Never Again!”

The architectural sites remaining in Verdun help tell its story. The Saint–Amant Lock–Bridge was the center of fortifications on a hill overlooking the Meuse Valley. The Chaussée Gate guarded the entrance to the city. In the 1,000–year–old Notre–Dame Cathedral, people prayed to their Catholic god to save them from the next round of invaders.

We wandered along Victory Avenue and toured the 17th century town hall. Linda and Benedicte shopped. Then we climbed the 73 steps up to the Victory Monument. Inside the monument, a crypt houses lists of the names of soldiers who protected Verdun.

This monument in Verdun honors soldiers from five nations who defended the city between 1914 and 1916. Looking down we could see the Quai de Londres, a terraced riverside marina financed by the City of London, England, in the 1920s. Picnickers and boaters were enjoying the August sun.

After a picnic lunch prepared by Benedicte, Olivier diapered little Thomas and we embarked for the Battlefield. We were not really prepared for “The Hell of Verdun,” but it was, like Auschwitz, a place we had to see.

Next week:

Verdun the Terrible
Master Sergeant H.D. Sosbee served at this base in Verdun, 1961–1963.
This document in the Verdun Victory Monument reads, “General de Gaulle, Verdun fighter who was injured at Douaumont, chaired the 32nd anniversary of the victory of Verdun to honor his comrades who had died for their country, Sunday, June 20, 1948.”
Linda will ride any carousel, anytime, anywhere.