2010-02-19 / News

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it

LaBrasca’s Pizza has been a Columbia staple for over 44 years ... no need to change it now.
By Cathy Cobbs

LaBrasca’s Pizza owner Bill May Photos by Mimi Maddock LaBrasca’s Pizza owner Bill May Photos by Mimi Maddock Some things just don’t need fixing. That’s how LaBrasca’s Pizza owner Bill May sees it. And how can you argue with 44 years of success?

The unobtrusive pizza joint located on Jackson Boulevard, tucked behind the K–Mart, has been famous for more than four decades for its five– minute pizzas and cheese salads, and not only is the food the same, so are the people who are serving it.

Sisters Johnnie Rosborough and Josie Mims have been waiting tables nearly every day for more than 36 years and have gotten to know their customers first as high school students, then married couples with kids and now, even grandparents.

“We are seeing several generations coming through here now,” Rosborough said. “It’s a great job. I love the customers and the work.”

The sisters started working at LaBrasca’s when they were in their 30s, and say they don’t see an end to their days of waiting tables, greeting customers, and serving good food.

The view from Jackson Boulevard isn’t much, but the pizza inside has been making Columbians happy for over four decades. The view from Jackson Boulevard isn’t much, but the pizza inside has been making Columbians happy for over four decades. “Why should I quit?” Rosborough said. “We’ve made a lot of friends over the years here.”

May said it’s the consistency, like his wait staff and food that makes people come back to the eatery, which opened in 1966.

“The worst thing you can do is change things that are working just fine,” May said. “While we have improved some of the quality of the toppings, we haven’t changed the way we make pizza sauce.”

May said he has added several items to the menu, including six varieties of wings and a selection of sandwiches and desserts, and that the “overall reaction from our customers to these small changes has been positive.”

Murals decorate the inside of LaBrasca’s. Murals decorate the inside of LaBrasca’s. But most staples remain, including the cheese salad, which is, simply,

lots of mozzarella cheese piled on top of lettuce

and served with LaBrasca’s special Italian dressing.

“Our ever–famous cheese salads, with only a few ingredients, somehow works,” May said. “People really seem to like it.”

May, who bought the restaurant last March, said he believes LaBrasca’s is the third oldest restaurant in Columbia. And while the clientele has changed over the years – it’s evolved from a high school, after–football game hangout to families with kids – the appreciation for the food remains.

“There’s a lot more choices for the kids these days, especially around this area,” Rosborough said. “But we still have a lot of regulars.”

Sisters Johnnie Rosborough (l) and Josie Mims have been waiting tables nearly every day for more than 36 years at LaBrasca’s. They were featured in Columbia Metropolitan          Magazine in 2004. Sisters Johnnie Rosborough (l) and Josie Mims have been waiting tables nearly every day for more than 36 years at LaBrasca’s. They were featured in Columbia Metropolitan Magazine in 2004. “We’re kind of an institution now,” May said. “That’s a good thing.”

Labrasca’s is located at 4365 Jackson Boulevard and is open Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, and Sunday 12 pm to 9 pm.

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