On a clear day the views from Congaree Bluffs Heritage Preserve can be spectacular. The High Hills of the Santee in western Sumter County are a well–known historical, geological, and scenic feature of the COWASEE Basin. Less well–known, but just as significant, are the high bluffs 20 miles to the west on the south bank of the Congaree River.

The Congaree River Bluffs offer the same scenic views and panoramas as do the High Hills of the Santee. These bluffs have a long geologic history that dates back millions of years ago. River flows over the eons have carved out steep valleys which have been flooded by periodic advances of salt water from the Atlantic Ocean.

Running for nearly 25 miles along the south bank of the river, the Congaree River Bluffs range in elevation from 200 to 325 feet above sea level. They offer dramatic views of Richland and Sumter County and on a clear day, the Columbia skyline.

Commodore Alexander Gillon of the South Carolina Revolutionary War Navy had his plantation, “Gillon’s Retreat” in the Congaree River Bluffs, as did Col. William Thomson and his Belleville Plantation. The famous battle of Fort Motte was fought on top of one of these bluffs.

Several streams and creeks – Big Beaver Creek, Bates Mill Creek, and others – have carved out steep ravines and draws where they cut through the bluffs on their journey to the Congaree River. The topography associated with these streams is rugged, and combined with such plants as white oak, sourwood, and mountain laurel. You would be hard pressed to tell you’re not in the mountains.

There are numerous springs and feeder streams found in these ravines. The cool, clear water seems to always run, even during droughts. The old boot–leggers were aware of these springs and combined with the rugged isolation, the ravines made ideal locations for making moonshine.

In 2001 the South Carolina Department of Natural Resource Resources (DNR), through its Heritage Trust Program, acquired a significant 200–acre piece of Congaree River Bluff. Known simply as the Congaree Bluffs Heritage Preserve, it protects an ecologically significant part of South Carolina including a stunning overlook of the Congaree National Park, 150 feet below.

As with most DNR Heritage Preserves, Congaree Bluffs has limited facilities. There are no restrooms and you need to bring your own water. There is an observation deck on the edge of the bluffs, a nearby picnic shelter, and the home of the previous owner has been converted into an education center for organized groups with an ecological or cultural mission.

Although the view from the Congaree Bluffs is the star feature of this preserve, it also has nearly three miles of hiking trails. One trail goes down the side of the bluff and parallels the Congaree River. It makes for an interesting contrast walking through a floodplain forest at the base of the steep bluff, which features white oak, beech, and other mountain hardwoods.

The Ravine Walk, about a mile and half loop trail, is west of the bluffs. This is a beautiful walk especially in spring when the mountain laurel, native azaleas, dogwoods, and fringe trees are in bloom. The trail includes a creek bottom as well as hardwood slopes that remind me of the mountains. There is also a good bit of fall color in late October and early November.

Not long after the preserve was open to the public the late ornithologist Robin Carter started a fall hawk watch from the observation deck. Most hawk watches are in the mountains where ridge lines and topography tend to concentrate migrating raptors, but coastal river valleys can be migrating corridors as well. The birds are not as abundant as at Caesar’s Head and other mountain locations but on some days a fair number of raptors can be spotted. Chief among these are Mississippi kites but they also include ospreys, broad–winged hawks, and an occasional bald eagle and rarely a swallow–tailed kite.

Congaree Bluffs Heritage Preserve is open from dawn to dusk (no camping allowed). To get there, turn off of US Highway 601 to Fort Motte. When you cross the railroad track in Fort Motte, drive northwest for one mile, then turn right onto a dirt drive, Turkey Track Lane. The first access will be a parking lot on the left at about a half mile. A kiosk provides trail information.

I recommend driving to the second parking access, about a half–mile further down. The remainder of the drive is gated off and you have a short five minute walk through an open field to get o the edge of the bluffs and the observation deck overlooking the Congaree River and Congaree National Park. For more information call 803–734–3886 or see www.drn.sc.gov/managed/ heritage/congbluffs/ description.html

(Next week: COWASEE

Basin churches)