Nachitoches not Nacogdoches

By Warner M. Montgomery warner@thecolumbiastar.com

The first courthouse in Natchitoches was built in 1828 then demolished in 1895 to allow this historic courthouse. It now houses the city museum. Next to the courthouse is the 50- year- old Lasyone's Restaurant famous for its meat pie.

After Linda and I checked in the Jefferson House B&B in Natchitoches, Louisiana, I took a walk around town.

Outside of the Immaculate Conception Church (est. 1728) I met Herman, a Catholic monk who had been at the church since he gave up wealth and position for piety and poverty 14 years before. He wore an ankle- length brown woolen tunic tied at the waist with a greasy rope. It was over 90 degrees so I knew he was suffering for his faith. Instead of the expected leather sandals, he had on Nike running shoes. "Just out for my morning run," he said, "How can I help you?"

Without my asking, Herman launched into a dissertation on the origin of Natchitoches. "Legend has it that the chief of the Indian tribe that lived along the Sabine River foresaw hard times. That river is now the border between Louisiana and Texas. The chief sent his two sons in search of water and fertile land. One son went west and ended up in East Texas where he settled down. When the Spanish got there years later, they named it Nacogdoches for the Indians they found there. The other son went east and ended up right here on Cane River Lake. When the French got here, they called it Nachitoches for the Indians who lived here. Same tribe, different name. By the way, it is pronounced Nack-a-tish."

The Main Street of Nachitoches, Louisiana, faced the Cane River Lake. The architecture is reminescent of the New Orleans French Quarter.

The first Frenchman to arrive at Nachitoches was Louis Antoine Juchereau de St. Denis in 1714. He founded a fort and trading post at the Indian village with the intention of protecting the Mississippi River from the Spanish. For his bravery, he was knighted by Louis XV and served for 24 years as commander of French forces in the area. He died and was buried under Herman the Monk's church. Nachitoches remained a French town until Napoleon sold out to Thomas Jefferson.

The movie Steel Magnolias was filmed in this house in 1988. It is now a bed and breakfast.

Herman pointed out plaques in the sidewalk to some of the famous people who once walked in Nachitoches. First was St. Denis, then:

• John Ford, director, Horse Soldiers, 1958

• John Wayne, actor, Horse Soldiers, 1958

• Robert Harling, playwrite, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Shirley MacLaine, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Olympia Dukakis, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Julia Roberts, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Sally Field, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Daryl Hannah, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Dolly Parton, actress, Steel Magnolias, 1988

• Gary Reasons, NY Giants, Super Bowl Champions, 1986,1991

• Kate Chopin, author, The Awakening, 1899

• Natchitoches Dixie Debs, Girls Fastpitch Softball Team, World Series Champions, 1994

• Bobby Hebert , Northwestern State University, 1979- 82, New Orleans Saints.

Linda caught up with me later. We rummaged through Kaffie- Frederick General Mercantile, Louisiana's oldest general store then went for dinner at Lasyone's Restaurant. We hoped to enjoy their world- famous meat pie - halfmoon pastry made of ground pork and beef with onions, parsley, hot sauce, and Cajun spices - and their equally famous Cane River cream pie. But! It was closed.

So… we setted for Mama's Oyster Bar. For $25 we ate Cajun in the oldest French settlement in the US. Linda had blackened catfish with crayfish etouffé. I dripped seafood gumbo and garlic-slathered French bread all over my Columbia Star T-shirt.

A fitting end to our visit to the town where John Steinbeck, William Faulkner, and Tennessee Williams once pondered the meaning of life.