E komo mai (welcome to) The Big Island
Photos by John Derrick
For three weeks in May-June, 2006, The Columbia Star managing editor, Natasha Derrick, and her husband, John, explored the Big Island of Hawaii in order to create a comprehensive road guide. Here are some highlights.
By Natasha Derrick Natasha@TheColumbiaStar.com
The afternoon sun beats down on a grove of graceful palm trees swaying in a slight breeze. Two figures stand perfectly still on the edge of a lava coastline, their gaze trained towards the mountains. They are the guardians and the gateway to a place of spiritual honor, worship, prayer, and most importantly, a place of refuge. The Pu'uhonua o Honaunau is the most well- preserved historical structure of its kind left in the islands. To the native Hawaiians, this place represented redemption, cleansing of sins, and a new chance at life.
The Hawaiians lived under a system of rules called kapu. Any number of actions could be considered kapu. Standing in the shadow of the king was an offense punishable by death. The pu'uhonua was the only possible way a they could escape the death penalty for breaking a kapu.
Bottom: The semi-precious jewel olivine gives Makena (Green Sands)Beach its olive hue. Left: Pu'uhonua o Honaunau was a place of refuge for native Hawaiians. Above: Green sea turtles feed in the lava tide pools near Pu'uhonua o Honaunau.
If a guilty party could reach the safe confines of the temple before the king's men caught him, he was safe from death. After a short stay with the priests, he would be allowed to return home without fear of punishment.
The grounds surrounding the temple were once home to some of Hawaii's most powerful chiefs. Now, as a National Historical Park, visitors can wander the grounds and see how the Hawaiians lived, worked, and played.
Driving east around the island, a small two-lane road leads to a sheer drop into the ocean. This is the most southern point in the U.S. The strong winds force the trees on this part of the island into a nearly horizontal slant. Businessmen have capitalized on this by placing giant windmills to harness the power of the ever-blowing wind. Even through closed car windows the whirring and creaking of the white giants can be heard clearly.
Near South point is a dusty coastal trail which leads to one of Hawaii's most unique natural creations. After over two miles of hiking into the wind and being plastered with a layer of rust-colored dirt, a crescent-shaped formation comes into view. From the edge of the crescent a dazzling amount of olive green sand has built up in the bowl.The wind and sea-chiseled walls act as natural stairs to facilitate the descent to the beach .
The grains of sand are actually tiny bits of the semi- precious jewel olivine. The beach is the remains of an old cinder cone which is slowly eroding. The olivine is formed as the lava cools and remains behind as the lava begins to erode.
As the tip of the crescent disappears into the distance on the walk home, it is hard to believe that such a jewel exists on the dry, dusty windswept land.
(Final week: Hilo and Puna)










