Slave Trade Expedition to Africa

The Road to Farenya is always paved with unexplained consequences. It has never been as simple as going from point A to point B.

Prior to 2004, there was no bridge, only a ferry across the Rio Pongo at milepost 90, and no road the last 26 miles. Our usual route was two hours to the ferry, a one hour wait, cross the river to Boffa, meet with the district official for an hour, then hire a motorized canoe for the two hour-trip up river to the village. Twice we took a 4X4 from the Boffa - two hours. Once we took the president's helicopter - two hours. All in all, the 112 miles was always a full day's trip.

The bridge was completed in 2004 as was the road from Boffa to Farenya. That should have meant a straight shot of 112 miles, maybe 2.5 hours at most. That may be true in the US, but not in Africa. It is still an all-day trip.

I awoke, showered, had breakfast with teammates Ken Kelly and Andrew Hoose, packed and prepared to leave the Guesthouse at 9 am. Dr. Balde arrived and announced, "The truck and driver will be here at 1 pm."

Warner enjoys the unbridled friendship of the children of Boffa. The three white folks strolled through the Dixinn Market checking out the local medicine vendors. Ken shopped for cloth he planned to have made into shirts. At a little caf, we had Cokes and beignets.

At 1:30 pm we piled in the four-door pickup. I sat in front with the driver. (At this point in the trip, I am the patron, the bossman.) Andrew, Ken, and Dr. Camara took the second row, and Ahmed the Interpreter and Moussa the Porter sat in the back with the luggage and four unknown people.

Dr. Camara's car followed us. It held Mimi (Dr. Camara's daughter), Louis (Dr. Camara's brother), and two unknown people.

First stop was Dr. Camara's home by the sea where we were greeted by his wife, a former Miss Guinea and a delightful woman. We paid our respects, had refreshments, and loaded some food into the car.

Next stop was the gas station at the junction of the two main highways north. We filled up the vehicles, had more refreshments, and bought a few chickens while Dr. Camara schmoozed with friends.

Dr. Ken Kelly enjoys a meal of rice and red sauce in Boffa. An hour down the paved highway, we stopped for bread and eggs. More schmoozing, more refreshments, more shopping. It was 3 o'clock, 90 degrees, and cloudy.

We reached the bridge at 4:40 pm, stopped for a photograph, and drove to the home of Dr. Camara's second wife in Boffa. Another beautiful woman with another beautiful meal ready for us.

The unknown people took their baggage from our vehicles and walked away only to be replaced with another group of unknown people. It's the African way.

The last 26 miles was the same route we had taken on our historic African Slave Trail Trek in June 2004 - a hot, dusty road passing through village after village along the Rio Pongo. It was the same route the caravans took in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries bringing slaves, ivory, and gold from the interior. It was a trail stained with blood, sweat, tears, and money.

A typical taxi on the road from Conakry to Boffa. See video on

www.The ColumbiaStar.com

(Next week: Arrival in Farenya)

The baby in Dr. Camara's home in Boffa cries at the sight of his first fot (white man). Warner meets Marthe Dana Lightburn, great granddaughter of Capt. Styles Lightbourn and Queen Niara Bely, the founders of Farenya in 1809.