Star Profile Moe Baddoura of Moe's Grapevine

Mohsen Baddoura grew up in an entertaining household of superior international cooks. His parents were from Lebanon, and one of his grandmothers was from Sicily. He moved to South Carolina from Kuwait when he was 16. His brother was already here, as was his uncle, Andy Shlon of Andy's Deli on Greene Street.

Baddoura took his family's culinary orientation with him to USC's hospitality management program, also known as Hotel, Restaurant and Tourism Administration (HRTA). He earned his BA and immediately went to work at Hilton Head Island as a food and beverage manager. After positions with Hyatt at Hilton Head and Hilton at the Atlanta airport, Baddoura came to Columbia to take over the Eclaire Pastry Shop at the Seven Oaks complex near Food Lion and Zorba's.

After 10 successful years in the baked goods business and a profitable sale of the company in 2000, Baddoura took out two more years at HRTA for his master's. Right out of graduate school, he became the top chef at the Mediterranean Tea Room on Devine Street.

Three-and-a-half years ago, Baddoura bid on a Hampton family land parcel near the intersection of Garners Ferry Road and the Rosewood Extension, where he built his design for Moe's Grapevine Italian Restaurant. He kept the kitchen open and well exposed, and he structured the roof to allow for a rooftop garden expansion.

The restaurant borrows heavily from Baddoura's cultural inheritance and especially his grandmother's Sicilian richness. To keep current while he keeps his heritage, he visits Italy regularly. The Italian influence on South America has to be appreciated, and Baddoura recalls "fact-finding" tours there, too, where he discovered Argentina is his favorite.

The food at Moe's Grapevine is predominantly like that served south of Rome, where the tomato reigns, but the pasta dishes come from the length of the peninsula. Also, a majority of the wines are Italian, while France, Spain, and the US are well represented. The best wine buys overall appear to be the Ruffino Chianti D.O.C.G. ($19 for the bottle and $4.50 by the glass) and the Gabbiano Chianti Classico ($23), both from Tuscany.

Lunch is daily, and the evening hours are accommodating, but two times stand out. Wednesday is Martini Night with all kinds of $2 Martinis. And Sunday brunch is from 11 until 3 with $2 Mimosas and Bloody Marys.

The seafood specials come fresh daily from Charleston.

Baddoura is a golfer, mostly at Spring Valley, where he works on his 16 handicap. Yet to get married, he appreciates the social side of his profession. However, he fears his industry is getting overrun with franchise operations, as efficient and price-conscious as that may be, and he works hard to compete and always to improve.

For reservations, call 776-8463. The restaurant is located at 4478 Rosewood Drive, next to Blockbuster Video.

Mohsen Baddoura