Slave Trade Expedition to Africa

In order to avoid the bribery and red tape of the African bureaucracy, our Farenya Expedition Team made arrangements for friendly dignitaries to meet us at the Conakry airport at 8:30 pm January 8, 2006. We were whisked through customs and immigration, and soon checked into the Guesthouse of the University of Conakry.

Our arrangements had been made by Dr. Jim Fisher of Columbia and his ERA/Guinea organization. Dr. Ken Kelly, Andrew Hoose, and I had separate rooms on the second floor with AC, shower with hot water, TV, phone, and mosquito netting. A nice restaurant was on the first floor.

Following African custom, we had a palaver (prolonged discussion) with our in-country team: Dr. Camara (historian), Bah Oury (ERA/Guinea director), Dr. Mamadou Balde (University of Sonfonia professor), Baba-Galle Soumah (school principal and candidate for mayor of Conakry), Ahmed Soumah (interpreter), and Moussa Fofana (son of the chief of Farenya and chief porter). We had to finalize our two-week agenda and our financial arrangements. We expected to spend a week in the village of Farenya and a week in Conakry including a three-day conference at the University of Sonfonia.

The feast at Baba-Galle's home: (l-r) Andrew Hoose, Baba-Galle, Dr. Ken Kelly, and Moussa Fofana. Dr. Camara announced that FONDIS (the private foundation of the wife of the president of Guinea) would provide a truck to travel to Farenya. Dr. Balde said the University of Conakry would provide accommodations (guesthouse) and transportation in Conakry.

ERA/Guinea, according to Fisher's instructions, was to provide money for gasoline for all transportation and food for all meals in the village. I turned over the cash Fisher had given me to Bah Oury.

We were told the next day was a Moslem holiday, Abraham's Sacrifice, so we could not travel to the village as planned. Instead, we were invited to Baba-Galle's home for a feast. We retired at midnight.

Breakfast was a fine surprise - omelet, bread and jam, orange juice, and coffee. Dr. Balde walked us around the university neighborhood and visited the central market. It was bustling in spite of rampant inflation and uncertainty over the status of the ailing president who refused to loosen his tyrannical powers.

Baba-Galle Soumah and his family in Conakry, Guinea At dusk we arrived at Baba-Galle's home next to his school, the most influential secondary school in Guinea. His mother, wife, sister, and six daughters were present. He joked about living with so many women as they waited on us from every side.

Thieves had stolen his powerline that morning so the women distributed candles to light our meal of lamb, rice with red sauce, oranges, and bananas. Baba-Galle, a tall thin man who was born in Farenya and represents the area in the national congress, has considerable political influence. He has supported our ventures in his village since my first visit in 1998. His wit and his friendliness guide him through the difficult reality of urban Africa.

Baba-Galle jokingly explained his Rules for Operating an African Vehicle:

Dr. Naby Camara and his family on the Moslem holiday, Abraham's Sacrifice. 1. Turn the key. If it doesn't start,

2. Kick it. If it still doesn't start,

3. Push it. Or, just walk with everyone else.

During my second night in the Guesthouse, I discarded the mosquito net, turned off the AC, and opened the windows. I fell asleep to the sounds of the urban African night - motorcycles, taxis, and the ever-present drums.

(Next week: The road to Farenya)