Story and photoby Jessica Cross

King John’s Castle, erected in the early 13th century, is in downtown Limerick

Editor’s note: Jessica Cross, a USC student, spent last semester studying at the University of Limerick in Ireland. For several weeks, she will share some of her experiences with the readers of The Columbia Star.

Many of the castles and old churches in Ireland have a grayish cast that mirrors the consistent gray of the weather. Still, color comes through the unique characters and is splattered on the buildings and pubs that line city center (downtown). It requires a careful eye to see beyond the noticeable dreariness of the people into a culture that is rich in history, mythology, and story–telling.

Almost immediately upon arrival in our host city, Limerick, my tourist group, took a trip to King John’s Castle. The structure, built in the early 13th century as a fortress, was never inhabited. One of over 400 castles in Limerick County, King John’s Castle paints in the minds of its visitors images such as the conflict between William of Orange and King James in the 17th century.

“Busker” Tom McNamara in Limerick Market The history of Irish structures is multi–faceted, and so are the people. For example each Saturday morning one of Ireland’s characters, Tom McNamara, sits under an entryway in Limerick City Center’s market, playing his accordion, telling jokes, and accepting coins from any appreciative listener.

My travelling companions and I had no problems leaving a few coins for this “busker” (Irish term for panhandler). Aside from the book of poetry he has published that sits in Limerick’s tourist office, McNamara tells stories to passersby through his humor and song. While he promised us that each joke would be the last, we were mesmerized by his accent, sense of humor, and red accordion.

My roommate, Ferghal, also loved to tell the occasional story. A young man of 21, he still met my expectations of the traditional Irish story teller. He came home every couple of weeks with some fresh injury and an interesting story attached to it.

Ferghal came home with a bloodied cheek and knuckle, saying he had been attacked by a young man who caught him kissing his girlfriend. Later, he injured his arm and kept it in a sling, and there was the time his ankle was slashed by a girl’s high heel. Ferghal took advantage of every opportunity to capture the attention of five roommates.

Ferghal was the entertaining book we came home to read in order to retreat from studying each evening.

It is not possible to place “my” Ireland into a neatly wrapped box. Like King John’s castle, these men characterize the tradition of the Irish story.

(Next week, more Irish castles.)