Under the Tuscan Spell

Lucca is one of Tuscany’s most famous walled cities. It is west of Florence, 20 miles from the sea, and about 15 miles from the Leaning Tower of Pisa. From its beginnings as an Etruscan town, it was a trading post on the road from Gaul to Rome protected by high walls.

In 56 BC, Caesar, Pompey, and Crassus met in Lucca and agreed to rule Rome as a triumvirate. When Rome fell, Lucca became the capital of the Lumbards, converted to Catholicism, and began to construct many churches. The city’s improved walls protected crusaders headed for the Holy Land and merchants bearing the fruits of trade with the Middle East.

The Volto Santo (Holy Face) in the Cathedral of San Martino is believed to have been carved by Nicodemus, Jesus’ confidant. During the Renaissance, Lucca became an independent city with its own money and a strong banking system. Luccan merchants competed with Florence and Pisa for the lucrative silk trade from the Far East. As the wealth of Lucca increased, so did its walls. By 1650, Lucca was encircled by over two miles of 36–foot–high walls, ramparts, ditches, and underground chambers.

When roving armies and plundering bandits lost their power, the walls were turned into a beautiful public walkway. With the advent of motorcars, Lucca became a pedestrian city. The only wheels allowed are on bicycles and strollers.

The Cathedral of San Michele has a spectacular Romanesque façade. We spent three hours walking the medieval streets of Lucca. Time was suspended. All buildings dated back to the 14th century, even the bank which is still operating after 800 years, now with ATMs and revolving security doors. The façade of the Cathedral of San Michele had four stories of intricate arcades and delicately carved motifs.

The Cathedral of San Martino and the Baptistry of Saint Giovanni and Reparata stood in the main square. Both date back to the early Christian building spree and now house museums and galleries.

A street musician plays in the ancient Roman amphitheater in Lucca. The cathedral contains Lucca’s most famous relic, the Volto Santo (Holy Face). Legend has it that Nicodemus, Jesus’ confidant, carved the wooden crucifix with an angel’s help to reflect the sacred features of his Christ. The crucifix was supposedly buried for 700 years then floated to Italy in an unmanned boat where two untamed bulls pulled it to Lucca.

The ancient Roman Amphitheater, where 10,000 spectators once witnessed gladiator fights and Pagan festivities, is now a splendid piazza with vendors, musicians, shops, cafes, and museums. Behind four– and five–story residences are church steeples and merchant towers.

The Communist Party of Italy is alive and active in Lucca. Linda and I enjoyed a pizza and cokes in a sidewalk cafe. While I watched the people walk by, Linda went shopping. “Look what I bought!” she said, “A bottle of Lucca’s famous olive oil and a loaf of fresh crusty Italian bread.”

Later that night, we sliced the bread, slathered it with the olive oil, and washed it down with Chianti wine. Oh, the good life, la vita dolce.

The ancient Roman Forum is now a wonderful pedestrian square.

(Next week: The Leaning Tower of Pisa)